There are many natural skin products on the market; the key is finding the ones with ingredients that will be beneficial for aging skin. Dieter Kuster, Ph.D., director of R&D and senior chemist for Doctor D. Schwab, recommended consumers look for "serums spiked with plant derivatives like Ginkgo biloba, rosemary, schisandra [magnolia vine],
Hillary Kallaway, product innovation project manager for Zia Natural Skincare, explained that Zia's products combine "the natural power of foods, pure essential oils and herbal extracts synergistically blended together to deliver effective skin care with visible results." For example, the company's eye cream contains mango butter and monoi oil, which are full of vitamins, antioxidants and natural hydrators to moisturize the skin and combat fine lines.
White birch bark extract is also rich in antioxidants, and has been shown to effectively treat melanoma and sun damage, according to Emily Fritchey, founder and president of Sunshine Botanicals. "Betulinic acid [from white birch bark extract] has anti-inflammatory, anti-viral and anti-aging benefits. It increases ceramide and collagen, and preserves the structure of collagen fibers," she explained. Fritchey added betulinic acid can also be found in a number of plant species, including the root of the goa bean, the bark of the American dogwood and white mulberry.
According to Linda Miles, L. Ac. D.O.M., vice president of derma e® Natural Bodycare, derma e also harnesses the power of antioxidants in their products, including olive oil, which is high in oleic, palmitic and linoleic fatty acids that moisturize skin; and green tea, which has anti-inflammatory properties. "Because it's rich in polyphenols, green tea also helps eliminate free radicals, prevents oxidative stress, protects skin from UVA and UVB radiation damage and reduces the number of sunburn cells," Miles said. The company also makes use of pomegranate, which is high in ellagic acid, punicic acid and polyphenols. Pomegranate extract has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. It also moisturizes and nourishes the skin, as well as protects and repairs the skin from sun damage.
Other ingredients that are antioxidant powerhouses include açaí, goji berry, vitamin C and coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), Kirsten Corcoran, founder of Larenim Mineral Makeup, said, adding, "they help to neutralize free radicals that can damage the collagen and elastin."
Keri Glassman, MS, RD, CDN and president of Keri Glassman, A Nutritious Life, said her line, Skin Appetit, looks to the basic principles of good nutrition and the benefits certain superfoods can provide with the Nutrx8Complex, found in all her anti-aging products. She explained: "Ingredients being used in these products are made of whole foods and whole food extracts rich in vitamins, minerals, amino acids, omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants such as blueberries, creamy yogurt, cantaloupe, flax seeds, walnuts, red wine grapeseed, dark chocolate, fig and wild honey. Many of the compounds in these foods are beneficial in treating skin conditions, sun damage, retaining moisture, preventing wrinkles and softening of the skin, making them the perfect addition to a skin care line."
Another popular skin care inclusion are alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs), known as fruit acids, Rick Simpson, president of Ultra Laboratories, said. AHAs can occur naturally or can be synthetically made, and are often found in chemical peels and products that reduce fine lines. "One of the best topical agents currently available for good skin heath would be AHAs, which cause superficial skin cells to slough off and allow the formation of new, fresher skin," he explained. Simpson added Retin A, an acid form of vitamin A known for its ability to fight wrinkles, is also an excellent exfoliator, as it causes the skin cells to turn over more rapidly.
Hyaluronic acid (HA), another popular skin care ingredient, is "a naturally occurring biopolymer that is implicated in the aging process and can be replaced with both oral and topical products," stated Carol Cooper, Ph.D., consultant to Hyalogic. "One-half of the HA in the skin is replaced daily, suggesting an important dynamic role for this molecule in maintaining the well-being of the skin." HA is found in all the tissues of the body, but 50 percent of the body's total HA is found in skin, which provides "a structural framework that traps as much as 1000x its weight in water)." Cooper explained that, as we age, the amount of available HA in the skin declines, which leads to dry skin. Using a serum that contains a small amount of HA, such as Hyalogic's EpiSilk™ PHA Serum, moisturizes and smoothes the skin, as well as soothes inflammation.