Not So Pretty: The Truth about Natural Cosmetics

New and improved. Longer lasting. All-day color. Richer. More vibrant. These buzz words describe the seemingly bionic products in today’s cosmetic industry. Unfortunately, in order to create these types of cosmetics, companies generally formulate their products with synthetic chemicals, which research has shown to be potentially carcinogenic, toxic and non-degradable. “The mass market brands have [ingredient] names you not only cannot pronounce, but you also wouldn’t want being absorbed into your body because of toxicity issues,” said Brad Klein, owner of Herbs of Grace Inc.

According to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, some of the most common harmful chemicals found in cosmetics include mercury, found in deodorants; lead acetate, found in hair dyes; formaldehyde and toluene, most commonly found in nail polish and other nail products; and petrochemicals in mascara. These chemicals are known carcinogens, in addition to being destructive to the reproductive system, skin and normal hormone functions. Dolores Patrick, co-owner of Terra Firma Cosmetics, added many mainstream products also include silicone emollients, which can promote tumors, and parabens, common preservatives known to cause cancer, birth defects and hormone imbalances. While the chemicals present in any one cosmetic product are most likely harmless, consumers are exposed to chemicals from multiple products, with multiple applications, which can accumulate through years of use.

Fortunately for consumers, there are great options in the natural cosmetics marketplace. Karl Halpert, Private Label Select, explained: “The current level of interest in natural cosmetics is extremely high, and growing exponentially into mass market distribution channels. ... It is all driven by a worldwide consumer demand for cosmetics that are healthful to use, environmentally responsible, and yet represent the high quality of the premium lines.”

Mike Indursky, CMO, Burt’s Bees, echoed Halpert’s claim. “This trend, and it’s not a fad, has been growing globally,” he said. “It’s caused the natural personal care market to grow at over five times the rate of the regular personal care market.”

In order to achieve a cosmetic effect without using harmful chemicals, makers of natural and organic cosmetics use a host of innovative ingredients, ranging from botanicals to herbal extracts. According to Jill Price Marshall, spokesperson for Dr. Hauschka Skin Care, their cosmetics line products “not only adorn the skin with color, they actually help to restore and maintain the health of the skin.” Among the ingredients called out on the label are black tea extract, rose petal extract, shea butter and witch hazel, all which work to soothe and heal skin.

Similarly, the Annemarie Börlind Caring Color Collection contains ingredients such as jojoba oil, bisabolol (a chamomile extract) and wheat germ protein. The company also uses flower and plant oils for its lip colors, including carnauba wax and candelilla wax, which, “nourish, hydrate, replenish oils and protect against free radicals and other environmental damage,” according to Linda Upton, vice president, Börlind of Germany Inc.

Cosmetics company Larenimis is also known for its use of unique ingredients, most notably Japanese honeysuckle extract in mascaras and foundations for its broad spectrum anti-microbal properties. The company’s founder, Kirsten Corcoran, added, “We have also used vanilla and almond derivatives a s preservatives in the mascaras.”

Natural cosmetics created with minerals are another popular option. Herbs of Grace provides a wide variety of vegan, mineral cosmetics. “We only use basic, crushed, non-micronized, minerals,” Klein said. “We do not add dyes, lakes, synthetics, preservatives or additives because they can be absorbed into your body.”

However, not all mineral cosmetics are created equal, warned Laura Steinel of Jane Iredale, and consumers need to be aware they might be buying mineral cosmetics that are not truly natural. “There are mineral makeup lines out there claiming to be ‘mineral’, but actually are much closer to traditional makeup,” she cautioned. “A true mineral makeup has the minerals listed in first positions.” The same rules apply for cosmetics made with natural herbs and botanicals.

With such a flourishing marketplace, consumers clearly have a bevy of products to choose from. However, this doesn’t mean consumers who buy natural cosmetics are necessarily safer. According to the FDA Web site: “ The regulatory requirements governing the sale of cosmetics are not as stringent as those that apply to the other FDA-regulated products ... Manufacturers may use any ingredient of raw material, except for color additives and a few prohibited substances, to market a product without a government review or approval.” Essentially, it is up to the consumer to educate her sel f and research the products she wants to buy.

In order to help consumers make a well-informed decision, the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics created a list of companies that have signed the Compact for Safe Cosmetics, a pledge more than 600 cosmetics companies have taken to “remove hazardous chemicals [from their products] and replace them with safe alternatives within three years.” In order to ensure these companies are holding true to their pledge, they agree to participate in conference calls and inperson meetings about twice a year, and periodic follow-ups to ensure compliance with the compact.

Burt’s Bees launched a similar online movement with its Greater Good Campaign, a code of ethics for companies that manufacture natural product s. Indursky noted: “What makes a natural product is really open to interpretation, because there are some products, like Burt’s Bees and some others that are truly natural, and there are others who just say they’re natural. They can be as synthetic as virtually every other synthetic product out there, but use the word natural on it. What we’ve done is helped develop a standard.”

Many providers of natural cosmetics recommend retailer s educate staffers on how to help guide and educate consumers via in-store, hands-on demonstrations, literature and classes. Staff education is an important component of such sales and marketing, and Corcoran recommended retailers encourage clerks to try the products themselves, so they can be more aware of what the products have to offer. Halpert suggested retailers work with manufacturers that can verify labeling claims. “The natural cosmetics consumer is largely information driven, and seeks products that are in line with his or her commitment to natural , or ‘green’ living, to whatever degree of commitment that may be,” he said. “This is an educated consumer with unprecedented disposable income whose interests in ethical business practice, environmental and health issues cross all political and cultural lines.”

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